Traditional Culture in the Heart of Sardinia
Pagan Festivals of Sardinia
Overview
Take a step back in time for a wild cultural experience! Join veteran WT Trip Leader Stefano Baldi for a fascinating discovery of the captivating pagan festivals of Sardinia, wild spectacles that hold true to their Sardo roots, with 2,000-year-old rituals, allegorical reenactments, colorful parades, masked dancers, lively music, dancing in the streets, and spirited horse races. This is a chance to experience the real Sardinia—the deep “dark heart” of the interior, where few tourists venture, and where the locals proudly keep the oldest traditions. In the company of Stefano, whose irrepressible, exuberant nature is well known and loved by all who travel with him, we can’t help but get caught up in the action! Along with the festivals, we visit artisans in their workshops, learn the culinary secrets of making good pasta, see how the special bread—pane carasau—is made, and enjoy a wine tasting as we visit one of the most renowned wineries of the island.
Arrive: Olbia, Sardinia
Depart: Olbia, Sardinia
Highlights
- Attend Sardinia's wildly colorful cultural festivals, with dancing, music, parades, and costumed participants
- Enjoy hikes leading to ancient archaeological sites, including Tomba di Gigante S'Ena è Thomes, a burial from the Bronze Age
- Meet cheesemakers, artisans, learn culinary secrets, taste robust wines
Itinerary
Our introduction to the heart of Sardinia begins with a hike to a shepherd's hut for lunch and a demonstration in the art of making Fiore Sardo, Sardinia's famous pecorino. In Gavoi, we attend the Sortilla de Tumbarinos, a lively local event where people attired in black clothes or robes, some with blackened faces or simple masks, roam around the town playing homemade drums accompanied by accordion and flute music.
Our hikes in the Sardinian countryside bring us to the Grotta di Ispinigoli, a deep cave linked to legends of human sacrifices in Nuraghic times. We also explore the Mamoiada area, with its beautiful landscape and “forgotten” archaeological sites, and learn about Sardinia's ancient past as we visit a Bronze Age tomb and the intriguing Museum of Mediterranean Masks, which displays the traditional masks used in Sardinian festivals.
We take the next few days to revel in the fun and excitement of Sardinia’s most fascinating pagan festivals, a chance to share a part of its fascinating ancestral history. At the Mamuthones carnival, we witness solemn parades of mysterious masqueraders in costumes of black sheepskins, heavy brass cowbells, and somber black wooden masks. We also take part in the Carrela è Nanti, where horses are ridden wildly through the narrow streets of Santu Lussurgiu in daring acts of bravery and skill; the Sartiglia, a reenactment of a medieval tournament on horseback, complete with reverberant drums and cheering crowds; and the carnival in Ovodda, culminating with a huge bonfire in the main square. Between festivals, we’ll enjoy short hikes along with the delights of Sardinia's traditional cuisine, and explore Romanzesu, an ancient Nuraghic village set amid centuries-old cork trees. Depart from Olbia on Day 10.
Be forewarned that some festivals recreate rituals that travelers might find troubling to watch, such as the sight of skinned animals during the processions. The festivals were not created for tourists and have been performed in villages here since the time of the Dionysian cults. We're happy to put you in touch with past clients if you'd like to discuss festival details with them.
Accommodations
Scroll through our signature accommodations for this trip below. Although it is highly unlikely, we may make substitutions when necessary.
What the Trip is Like
This trip is rated Level 2, Easy to Moderate, according to our trip grading system. You will need to be comfortable hiking 4 miles a day and being on your feet for up to 2 hours a day.
Average Hiking Day
- 3-4 miles
- 1-2 hours
- 300 feet gain/loss
Challenge Day
- Day 3: 3.5 miles, 1.5 hours, 300 feet gain, and 100 feet loss
This trip is focused more on the festivals than hiking, but the few hikes are mostly on dirt roads with easy terrain. There is not much elevation gain or loss, and there are occasional steep and rocky sections.
In the winter, the weather is usually crisp and cold. There can be ice or snow, and some festivals take place after sunset, making warm garmets necessary items to bring. Daytime temperatures are usually in the 50s°F and nighttime temperatures drop to the 40s°F or lower.
Most hotels and inns are quaint and well-located. Since they are often in historic buildings, the rooms are not always of uniform or international size. Our leaders do their best to assign rooms in a fair way so that all participants experience an equal advantage throughout the trip as a whole. Please note that Ovodda is in the middle of nowhere, so the accommodation is a very simple, basic, and clean bed and breakfast. Single rooms can be requested but are not always available, due to the limited space in the hotels. If you prefer a single room, please make your request as early as possible.
Lunches are most often taken in a local restaurant, but sometimes will be a traditional meal prepared by a local shepherd at a winery. Dinners are served at nearby restaurants or our hotel. Meals often include pork, lamb, cheese, and vegetables. Seafood is available in Oristano. During the festivals, traditional meals are more commonly available and each town has their own specialties, including many local sweets and cookies. Please note that in Europe, the dinner hour is considerably later than what it is in the US. We do our best to secure early reservations for our groups, but most often the evening meal will be at 7:30 pm.
Our van will transport the group's luggage, so you only need to carry a daypack for items you need for the day (rain gear, sweater, camera, water bottle, etc.). Trip members are usually free to skip a day's hike or activity and travel to the next destination in the support vehicle (or remain at the hotel if we are not transferring that day).
Client Testimonials
"This was a truly remarkable trip by a leader who is experienced, motivated, and obsessed by his love of Sardinia and its people and traditions."
Allan M.
Mount Kisco, NY<br />Pagan Festivals of Sardinia
"One of our absolute best trips, certainly the best of our Wilderness trips. We have been raving about it since we got home."
Carol M.
Mount Kisco, NY
"A wonderful, intense experience. Stefano’s love for Sardinia, its food, history, and people made the trip."
Gordon C.
Menlo Park, CA
"Only because of Stefano's experience and efforts was such a trip possible. Travelers could never duplicate such a trip for themselves. This is what sets Wilderness Travel apart."
Jim H.
San Luis Obispo, CA
"This trip gave us insights into facets of Sardinian life that most tourists will never see."
Judith T.
Punta Gorda, FL
"Stefano's personal contacts and intimate knowledge of Sardinia really makes this trip possible and so unique. The behind-the-scenes interaction was incredible and made the festivals even more fun. Loved lunching with the shepherds, the roasted lamb, pecorino and ricotta-making. Despite the language barrier, Stefano's local contacts became our festival-going friends as well."
Julie L.
Harbour Island, Bahamas
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Itinerary
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With more than 200 different adventures to choose from, we want to help you find the trip that’s right for you. Our Trip Level system ranks each trip in two ways: a number rating from 1 to 6 according to the activity, and general travel rigors. 1 is the easiest and 6+ the most difficult.