August 22, 2020

Mongolia’s Golden Eagle Hunters

Witnessing the Legendary Golden Eagle Festival in Mongolia

Two WT adventurers shared their experiences on our Mongolia’s Golden Eagle Festival trip, where they stayed in a traditional ger camp, met eagle hunters and their families, and witnessed the exciting games of the Golden Eagle festival.

To experience eagle hunter culture, we travel to what feels like the ends of the earth—to the small town of Ulgii, deep in the Altai Mountains of Mongolia’s wild West. We’re here to attend the Golden Eagle Festival, which began in 1999. After Mongolia emerged from Soviet influence, its citizens began restoring and celebrating their culture.

Snow-capped mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds, flanked by rocky slopes and a flat foreground, where skilled Eagle Hunters from Mongolia practice their ancient art.

It’s the first weekend in October, but in Mongolia winter has already arrived. It’s cold, it’s windy, and the snow is flying.

A row of traditional yurts with colorful doors stands proudly against a mountainous background in Mongolia, where hunters train their Golden Eagles.
A colorful embroidered pattern featuring red, green, pink, and white floral and leaf designs on a black background, reminiscent of the traditional artistry seen in the attire of Mongolia's Golden Eagle Hunters.

We stay in a wonderful ger camp a few kilometers from the festival site. Perfect for nomadic lifestyle, gers can be erected in less than an hour. Layers of thick felt and heavy canvas protect against the elements. Doors elaborately painted in bright colors stand out against the winter landscape. Inside, beautiful hand-made tapestries line the walls and a coal-burning stove keeps us warm.

A person wearing a fur hat and jacket holds up a large Golden Eagle on their gloved hand in the mountainous landscape of Mongolia.

Many Kazakh hunters and their families travel hundreds of miles to compete in the Golden Eagle Festival. This hunter joins us in camp and shows us his eagle. Female eagles are preferred because they are larger, generally three pounds heavier than their male counterparts, and better hunters.

Four horseback riders dressed in traditional attire hold up eagles in an open landscape with mountains in the background, embodying the spirit of Mongolia's Golden Eagle Hunters.

Early on the first morning of the festival, more hunters stop by our camp en route to the festival site.

A person in fur clothing and a fur hat stands next to a majestic Golden Eagle, with a mountainous Mongolian landscape in the background.

Among them, a female hunter shows off her close relationship with her eagle. She wears the traditional warm fur coat and hat.

A group of hunters in traditional Mongolian attire sit on horseback, each holding a trained golden eagle, with mountains in the background.

At the festival grounds, 114 hunters wearing traditional clothing parade on horseback. Hunters rest their forearms on baldaks (forked wooden sticks fitted into their saddles) to support their weighty eagles. All competitors line up in front of the judges.

A person in traditional Mongolian attire rides a horse across a rocky terrain, clutching a majestic Golden Eagle, embodying the ancient practices of skilled hunters.

The first rounds of competition are fierce. While a hunter rides across the steppe often at break-neck speed, calling to his or her eagle, an assistant atop a nearby mountain unhoods and releases the eagle. The eagle swoops down and lands on the hunter’s raised arm, lured by a bloody lamb bone. Later, the eagles swoop again, this time for a freshly killed rabbit the hunter drags behind the horse. Judges award points for how quickly the eagle reaches its hunter and how far away the hunter is from the mountain.

Two people on white horses in traditional attire race across a barren Mongolian landscape with mountains in the background. One rider holds a whip aloft, embodying the spirit of ancient hunters with their Golden Eagle soaring nearby.

Based on Kazakh culture, the contest of wife chasing and playfully beating her husband is great fun for competitors and spectators alike.

A person wearing traditional attire holds a majestic Golden Eagle on their gloved hand against a mountainous backdrop, embodying the age-old traditions of Mongolia's hunters.

In between competitions, a hunter shows off the prowess of his hooded eagle, her powerful claws on his gauntlet, her wings spread wide.

Two images depict a person in traditional fur clothing and headwear: one set against a mountainous backdrop reminiscent of Mongolia, and the other against a blue surface, capturing the spirit of Golden Eagle Hunters.

Although most competitors are men, a growing number of young women are joining in. Unfortunately, these two women do not fare well this weekend. Once released from the mountain top, their eagles fly off to other mountains. Neither advances to the next day’s finals.

An elderly man with a long white beard wears a large fur hat and a dark coat, looking into the distance like the proud hunters of Mongolia, his stern gaze reminiscent of a golden eagle's watchfulness.

Many former, now elderly, eagle hunters attend the festival as spectators.

After two days, the festival comes to an end. To the winners: medals, cash, airplane tickets, and the title Eagle Hunter!

A person in a black coat and hat holds a wrapped item outdoors in a desert-like landscape with mountains in the background, reminiscent of Mongolia's terrain favored by Golden Eagle hunters.
A woman with a headscarf featuring geometric patterns looks downward, her brow slightly furrowed in thoughtful contemplation. The colorful, blurred background hints at a distant landscape, evoking the traditions of Golden Eagle Hunters in Mongolia.

The next day, we visit a local Kazakh family still at their summer ger. The husband is one of the hunters who competed in the festival and was a winner several years prior. He meets us at the road, his eagle swaddled in a blanket—an unexpected display of the intimacy that exists between hunter and eagle.

His wife treats us to a breakfast that includes milk tea and a bottle of vodka while he serenades us with traditional folk songs. When we ask them how they met, she smiles coyly and says, “in high school. All the girls were after him because he was so handsome.” To which he replies with a laugh, “I still am!”

Later, he takes us outside where we each have a chance to try on his hunting regalia and let his eagle perch on our arm. She may weigh only eleven pounds, but she’s solid.

Our experience of Mongolia and the Golden Eagle Festival was absolutely thrilling—one that we will cherish for the rest of our lives.

—Text and photos by Jeannee Sacken and Michael Briselli, Mongolia’s Golden Eagle Festival.