December 17, 2017

Hiking Through History in Shikoku, Japan

Exploring Japan’s Art, Architecture, and Adventurous Trails on our Hiker’s Journey to Shikoku.

On our Hiker’s Journey to Shikoku, travelers follow a pilgrimage route originated by the Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi, explore venerated temples and a feudal-era castle, climb one of Shikoku’s highest peaks, and discover the remote Iya Valley, with its vine bridges and 300-year-old thatched farmhouses. Below, ten-time adventurer Michael Koberda shares some photos from his recent WT trip.

A couple stands in front of the historic Todai-ji Temple in Nara, Japan, on a cloudy day. Several other visitors can be seen around the temple grounds.

My wife Anna and I travel a lot, but the Hiker’s Journey to Shikoku in October 2017 was our first trip to Asia. We were prepared for new experiences, and yet Japan still felt even more exotic than we’d imagined—in the most positive sense.

A group of five people, including four women in traditional Japanese kimonos and one person in casual attire, standing in front of red torii gates on a historic hiking trail in Shikoku.

During our days in Kyoto, we visited  ancient sites like the Fushimi-Inari , where more than 10,000 vibrant orange torii gates line the walkways.  The fall colors on the maple trees were just beginning to change while we were there.

A river flows through a rocky gorge in Shikoku, surrounded by lush green vegetation and mist-covered hills. The water appears turbulent as it navigates between the steep, forested slopes, making it a perfect backdrop for hiking enthusiasts seeking adventure and history in nature.

From Kyoto, we headed to Shikoku, a small island of steep mountains and green valleys. It seemed like another world compared to the bustling cities of Tokyo and Osaka. It was extraordinary to hike through ancient forests and visit some of the many temples that adorn the island.

Two individuals wearing light-colored jackets and hats are standing on a vine bridge in Shikoku, surrounded by dense green foliage, likely enjoying the rich history and hiking trails of the region.

During one of our hikes in the Iya Valley, we crossed a kazura-bashi, a woven vine bridge, suspended over the river. These bridges were once made entirely of vines that could be chopped down to evade pursuing enemies. (Luckily, they are now reinforced with some steel beams!)

A traditional Japanese meal presentation with various small dishes including pickles, tofu, fish, vegetables, sauces, and a soup bowl on a dark wooden table—reminiscent of the culinary heritage found in Shikoku after a day of hiking its historic trails.

One of the distinctive aspects of Japan is its cuisine—you cannot possibly go hungry in this gastronomic paradise, even if you are not skilled in using chopsticks. The food is incredible, with so many different flavors and textures. We ate lots of fish and vegetables prepared in a variety of ways; the photo above shows a traditional breakfast.

A group of ten people with hiking gear stands on a scenic lookout with mountains in the background on a clear day, reminiscent of the historic trails of Shikoku.

Some days were cloudy during our hikes, while others were bright and sunny. Here is our group at a lookout in Shikoku.

Zen garden with large rocks on raked gravel, surrounded by trees with autumn foliage, nestled on the historic island of Shikoku, and overlooked by traditional Japanese buildings.

Another distinctive aspect of Japan is the beautiful gardens, some meticulously landscaped with rocks and pebbles raked in intricate designs; others full of ponds, lush greenery, and colorful plants. This one in particular is the largest rock garden (or zen garden) in all of Japan.

Interior of a traditional Japanese temple with ornate decorations, hanging lanterns, and wooden structures, reminiscent of the historical temples found on the Shikoku pilgrimage route. A red carpet covers the floor leading to an altar area adorned with various symbolic objects.

We saw many Buddhist temples, both big and small, and they were all unique and beautiful. In Koyasan alone, there are more than 100 temples, and the Shikoku pilgrim route is connected by 88 temples. Here is a look inside Zentsui-ji, temple No. 75 on Shikoku, where Kobo Daishi was born.

This was a truly memorable trip; we keep talking to our friends about it and will probably continue to do so for a long time.

—Photos by 10-time WT Adventurer Michael Koberda, Hiker’s Journey to Shikoku.