Hiking the Heart of the Balkans

While the Accursed Mountains are not exceptionally high, they are steep and rugged, and this trip, while not technically difficult, is aimed at those who have at least some experience mountain hiking. At lower elevations, the trails are usually packed dirt, but at higher elevations they can be uneven, with large rocks or loose scree, so participants must have good balance and be confident on their feet. Hiking poles are highly recommended. After the first two days, each hike includes serious elevation gain and/or loss, and there are no alternate hiking options available. Trails typically have a steep ascent to begin, then follow a ridgeline before taking a steep descent back to the valley floor.

We strongly urge you to train for your trip, as your enjoyment will be highly dependent on your level of fitness. The best training for a hike is to hike, especially over hills or rough terrain. Next best are running, swimming, bicycling, or other cardiovascular exercises. Stair-climbing machines are excellent preparation for hiking uphill. Your feet should also be well prepared-make sure your hiking boots are sturdy, comfortable, and thoroughly broken-in.

Altitude is generally not a problem on this trip. However, some people still experience a few problems when they first reach high altitude. Slight headache and sleeplessness are the most common symptoms.

In Albania, the climate is Mediterranean on the coast (mild, rainy winters, hot, sunny summers), while slightly more continental and cooler in the mountainous interior, depending on the altitude. In the lowlands, the average summer temperature is 75°F, with mild winters at 45°F. In the mountainous interior, the dominant factor is elevation, with big daily fluctuations in temperatures between daytime and night. The snow line in the Albanian Alps is at 4,900 feet, compared to the Swiss Alps at around 8,500 feet. In June, the meadows are covered in wildflowers and by September, the last snowfields disappear and foliage begins to turn red, indicating the arrival of autumn. As in all mountain regions, there is a chance of summer rainfall and the possibility of thunderstorms.

The hotels, mountain lodges, and guesthouses we use on this trip are basic given how far off the typical tourist path they are, but they are the best-available accommodations in the rural mountain areas we visit. They are well located, comfortable, and offer hearty homemade meals to fuel us as we hike through this gorgeous and lightly touristed region. It is important to arrive with an open mind and sense of adventure as we explore valleys without the tourist infrastructure you might expect in the Alps of Western Europe. Since guesthouses are often in historic rural buildings, the rooms are not always of uniform or international size. Many of our local hosts were farmers or shepherds until recently, and their lodges may lack common amenities in their guestrooms and bathrooms. Our leaders do their best to assign rooms in a fair way so that all participants experience an equal advantage throughout the trip as a whole.

Located on the Adriatic and Ionian coasts, Albania has a cuisine typical of a Mediterranean country, and you'll recognize elements from Italian, Greek, and Turkish cuisine. Mixed grills of meat and vegetable (zgara) are typical, as well as byrek, a savory pie with layers of flaky phyllo dough filled with various meat, vegetables, and herbs. Typical salads include chopped tomatoes, cucumber, and onion, topped with white brine cheese. In the mountain villages, vegetable or beef stews offer nourishment, along with homemade cheeses and fresh-baked breads, and on the coast, there is catch-of-the-day fish. Lunches on Days 4, 6, 7, and 8 will be enjoyed picnic-style on the trail.