September 7, 2022

The Call of Cordillera Huayhuash

We love nothing more than seeing photos our travelers take on our journeys. It’s even more special when the photos are from Trip Leaders who remain completely inspired by the landscapes, even after years of exploring the same trails season after season. Here is Ryan Kost after our recent adventure: Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash.

Back down from our two-week circuit of the high alpine loop in the Cordillera Huayhuash with Wilderness Travel. Over 100 miles covered, with 50,000 feet of ascents/descents. Lots of fierce sun, frigid evenings, fresh locally grown/butchered food, laughs, struggles, incredible landscapes, and seeing many old friends.

I continue to connect deeper with this place and try and find new ways to experience and truly see it. This place will always be one of my greatest classrooms in the dusty path of life and I am forever grateful. Here are some select photos from our trip around this amazing range. In short, no prose or photos will ever fully capture the magic of Cordillera Huayhuash.

A person adjusts a saddle on a horse in a rugged outdoor setting. Nearby, bundles of gear are scattered on the ground, and another horse grazes in the distance against the stunning backdrop of the Cordillera Huayhuash mountains.

Our team readying the horses for the day.

A mountain range with snow-capped peaks, like the Cordillera Huayhuash, is illuminated by the setting sun. A small lake is visible in the foreground, reflecting the light. Rocky slopes and a partly cloudy sky are also seen.
Two people stand side by side in front of a tranquil lake with snow-capped mountains in the background, both wearing hats and warm clothing. A thatched-roof structure is visible near the lake, set against the majestic peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash.

Sonya and Juan take a quick morning break from milking the cows at their home in Carhuacocha. Great to connect with them and have formed relationships like these over the years. Juan gave me some fresh milk not more than 20 seconds out of the cow in that plastic jug. Nice boost to start the day.

Two hikers with a donkey traverse a trail, overlooking snow-covered mountains and two turquoise lakes in the rugged terrain under a clear blue sky, answering the call of Cordillera Huayhuash.

Oh, to feel small is a wonderful experience. Magic of these mountain cathedrals.

An elderly woman with a wrinkled face, wearing a green sweater and a straw hat with a maroon band and flower, looks directly at the camera, evoking the call of Cordillera Huayhuash in her penetrating gaze.

Navarra 86 years old in Llamac. She remembered me from years past and I stopped in to say hello. She looks quite serious here but is full of laughter and life. I told her I’d visit her again in just a couple weeks to check-in. You can see the mountains tattered on her skin. It’s beautiful. It’s resilient. It ain’t easy.

A view of the Milky Way galaxy as seen from Earth, stretching vertically across a dark night sky with many stars visible, above the silhouetted Cordillera Huayhuash mountains.

Night sky every single night. Puts some perspective on our ego pie.

The Cordillera Huayhuash's snow-covered peaks and glacier are illuminated by a dramatic sunset sky filled with clouds, setting the stage for an unforgettable adventure. In the rocky foreground, patches of grass and shrubs hint at the untamed trekking path ahead.

Alpenglow from a solo sunset scramble.

  • woman in village cordillera huayhuash peru

Elder in Huayallpa. We chatted for a few moments, and I played with her cute dog. Frequenting these communities over and over has allowed me to gain intimate access and relationships versus being a fleeting visitor. It’s a wonderful feeling.

Two people stand outside stone huts with thatched roofs in the mountainous landscape of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Both are wearing warm clothing including hats. A dog is visible in the background near one of the huts.

Fidila and Landa and their two dogs Lobo and Billy at their home in Matacancha. It was great seeing them, and we shared a tea in their house over lots of good conversation. Amazingly, they live so remotely but their three children live in Italy and Argentina (Buenos Aires).

Two people stand on a hillside with arms around each other, overlooking the serene lake and snow-capped peaks of Cordillera Huayhuash under a clear blue sky.

Mi amigo Lucio “Luchito”! What a relationship we’ve built over the years. So lucky to have him on our team.

Bringing the cattle back from the grazing grounds to the corral in Mitucocha. Another day’s work. Amazing to watch how efficient this guy was on the horse getting all the cows where they needed to be for the night.

Golden glow over Gashpapampa.

Marco and our trusty emergency horse. No helicopter rescues in this part of the world if needed. We rely on the strength of these animals.

The A-Team and me. Abel, Me, Lucio, and Marco on top of Santa Rosa Pass roughly 16,500′.

A dusty traffic jam during our morning commutes.

Solar rainbow. Local knowledge says if this rainbow persists well into the afternoon there will be rain. If it disappears, then no rain. It went away around 2:00 pm and no rain.

Fiery Rasac.

Gangrajanca and remnants of avalanches flowing into the lake. Incredible to see how fast these glaciers are melting. Beautiful to experience the thundering sounds and cascading ice but very scary. These are happening all day, every day now.

Our descent down to “Old Lake.”

Kitchen duties. Antonio and Abel working their magic.

Dog bed, Andes-style.

Community camp lady plays with her dog. I asked her to show me some tricks. She laughed…held her hands out and did a little dance with her pup. We later gave her breakfast. I handed her some bread and cheese and she gave it to the dog, haha. She enjoyed the soup, though.

Our burro team carries our gear up to over 16,500′ near Cuyoc.

Incredible contrasts and geology.

Morning views from inside a home.

—Text and photos by Trip Leader Ryan Kost, Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash.