October 22, 2024

Hiking Mont Blanc’s Trails in Autumn

In September 2024, one of our groups headed out on our Treasures of Mont Blanc adventure to follow moderate trails from France to Italy and finally to Switzerland. Along the way, they enjoyed peaceful stops at mountain-ringed lakes, guided tours of charming cities, and even experienced a private cooking class. Here is a look at their journey.

Annecy & Talloires, France

  • Five people posing on a rocky area with a scenic view of mountains and a lake in the background, capturing the essence of an autumn hike.
  • A group of people sit in a motorboat on a lake, surrounded by mountains and a cloudy autumn sky. One person is steering the boat, while others are seated in casual outdoor clothing, discussing their recent hiking adventure near Mont Blanc.
  • A tour guide stands with a group of tourists near a canal in a European town, surrounded by the vibrant hues of autumn foliage. The colorful buildings and a historic structure provide a picturesque backdrop, creating an unforgettable scene.

Our first hike of the trip was a short but lovely walk passing through a nature preserve. We stopped at a rock outcrop overlooking the lake then took a boat taxi up the lake to Annecy. The cliffs above Talloires are popular with paragliders and you can see them gliding in the background. We were then treated to a guided tour of old Annecy. The guide is a former dancer—she was both entertaining and highly knowledgeable. That night, we savored a Welcome Dinner at the hotel.

View from an open window overlooking a lake with several sailboats and surrounding hills, perfect for hiking enthusiasts exploring scenic trails under a cloudy sky.

Our first hotel of the trip was a converted abbey, tucked away on the eastern side of Lake Annecy.  Paul Cézanne, the French painter, once stayed here. The view out of the hotel room certainly looked like a painting. 

A group of hikers with backpacks and trekking poles ascend a rocky, tree-lined path, surrounded by the vibrant colors of autumn.

The hike the next day was along an old stone path.

In a cozy restaurant, amidst the warm hues of autumn, a group of people sits around a long wooden table set with plates, glasses, and napkins. Their conversation drifts from hiking adventures to the breathtaking views from Mont Blanc.

That evening we took a short van ride to a two-star Michelin restaurant, where we enjoyed a fabulous five-course meal!

  • Bundled up in winter clothing, the person stands inside a red telephone booth on a snowy hillside, with a scenic view of Mont Blanc towered by majestic mountains and a tranquil lake in the background.
  • A woman, beaming with joy, holds a plate of food at a table bustling with others. Books adorn the shelf in the background, hinting at tales of adventures like hiking Mont Blanc in the crisp embrace of autumn.

Our group packed up and traveled in vans over a high mountain pass which was featured prominently in past Tour de France bike races. We were greeted at the top of the pass by light snowfall. The day’s hike proceeded up above the pass. The location of the British phone booth is important—it is the only place in the area with cell service!  We had a hearty lunch at a rustic refuge—The proprietor and her husband have a snail farm, and the resulting escargot was delicious.

In an autumn-inspired setting, a group stands attentively in a factory as a woman in a red sweater and black hat explains the workings of a large industrial machine, reminiscent of navigating the intricate paths found while hiking near Mont Blanc.

We then proceeded to the Tarentaise Valley, stopping to get a tour of the Arpin wool processing and finished goods factory. The machines have been used for decades and several people in our group purchased a sweater or a jacket as a souvenir.

A white building with a red roof is nestled among dense green trees, set against the backdrop of tall mountains reminiscent of Mont Blanc, under a partly cloudy sky. The scene invites thoughts of hiking through serene paths amidst an autumnal landscape.

Our next hotel was a small one in Sainte Foy in the Tarenstaise Valley. The bar is a gathering place for the locals and the view from the deck was great.

The next day our hike went uphill, through a small village, and continued to hike up to a saddle, where our Trip Leader Tania led the group in yoga stretching, which was followed by lunch and a group photo.

That evening, we went to a chalet owned by a friend of the guides. The festive meal seemed like a large holiday family gathering, but with different fare.

Courmayeur, Italy

The next day we traveled over the first St. Bernard pass, then descended into the Courmayeur area.  The weather was warmer, and it stayed this way for most of the rest of the trip (except at high elevations, where it remained cooler).

Our next hike brought us to a series of waterfalls and views of Mont Blanc could be seen in the distance. Some of the group then went to a spa that originated with the Romans. Dinner was at a unique Courmayeur restaurant.

The next day involved riding the Skyway tram up to Point Helbronner at 11,358 ft. The cylindrical tram rotated 360 degrees several times on the ascent! The weather at the top was cold but clear, providing dramatic views in every direction, including Mont Blanc and other peaks.

After the Skyway tram ride back down, we took a van ride to the “challenge hike”. The path is part of the traditional Tour du Mont Blanc. A tasty picnic salad lunch was followed by a group photo.  Part of the group proceeded up to the Elizabeth refuge.

The views each morning from the Courmayeur hotel room windows were stunning.

Aosta, Italy

Our group traveled down the Aosta Valley to Aosta, with beautiful views of vineyards on steep slopes along the way. A local guide gave us a tour of old Aosta, which included Roman ruins. That night the group had a cooking class at a 1-star Michelin restaurant, followed by a multi-course meal.

Switzerland

The next day involved a van ride to the second St. Bernard pass. When we visited, the famous dogs were being filmed for a documentary. We hiked above the lake, then had our picnic lunch inside the monastery.

The van then took us down the valley where we then hiked up to a very small village perched on a hill.  All of the chalets were made of stone with slate roofs. Our hotel was actually a few of the chalets that had been purchased and renovated inside. A special meal involved raclette prepared by the fireplace in a cozy stone “cave” and early risers the next morning were treated to a full moon.

We hiked the next day to a high ridge overlooking the Verbier town and ski area, then descended to a different ridge for a picnic lunch. The view was incredible! After the hike there was an optional excursion to an art museum in the small town of Martigny. The museum had a special exhibit of  Cézanne and Renoir paintings on loan from two Paris museums.  There was also a collection of old cars in a lower level, including cars built in Switzerland, as well as a large sculpture garden that included a Rodin.

Before dinner there was a special musical treat—a performance with traditional Swiss alpine horns. A solo rendition of “Amazing Grace” was particularly moving.

Chamonix, France

The final stop on our journey brought us to Chamonix. A cog railway took the group to the Mer de Glace glacier. We went inside the glacier ice, where Christelle, an environmental scientist and conservationist, gave an informative talk on the state of the glaciers and certain birds and animals.  She then accompanied the group on a hike above the glacier. After the hike, a well-earned Prosecco toast was given, with the Dru peak in the background.

Our Farewell Dinner was in Chamonix. The view of Mont Blanc from the hotel room windows was unforgettable.

On the departing morning (Day 11) the sun was again shining on the Chamonix Valley.   A trip of a lifetime!

—Text and photos by two-time WT adventurer Richard George, Treasures of Mont Blanc.