Days 1-2
Burgos / León / Astorga
We meet in the genteel town of Burgos and begin our hike above the remote village of Hontanas, where we begin to see the trail markers of el camino—signs displaying stylized yellow scallop shells, the symbol of St. James, with star-rays pointing the way. We follow el camino through the Castilian landscape to the 14th century ruins of the Monasterio de San Anton and onward to the pilgrim town of Castrojeriz and then Fromista, a key pilgrim stop since the days of the Codex Calixtinus. We visit Fromista’s perfect Romanesque church and overnight in ancient Carrión de los Condes. After exploring the engaging medieval city of León, we continue to the walled city of Astorga, where we hike to the hamlet of Castrillo de Los Polvazares and onward to our hotel, a charming inn nestled in an old stone village on the pilgrim path.
Day 3
Villafranca del Bierzo
Today we enter rural Galicia and the cultural transition is dramatic—now we begin to hear the ancient Galician tongue, Gallego. The province of Galicia has a Celtic heritage similar to that of Brittany in France and Cornwall in England. We climb paths through woodlands and across dramatic moors of heather and Scotch broom, typical of the wild Galician landscape. Our accommodation is the peaceful Parador de Villafranca in one of the prettiest towns on the pilgrim route, the 11th century hamlet of Villafranca del Bierzo.
Days 4-5
O’Ceibreiro / Portomarin
Our path brings us to the famous Cruz de Hiero, an iron cross atop Monte Irago and one of the most emblematic spots on the pilgrim trail. We continue to the mystical village of O’Ceibreiro, whose tiny church has a chalice linked in legend with the Holy Grail, and traverse some of the most beautiful stretches of the entire pilgrim trail, with jewel-green fields, ancient stone walls, and farmers tending their small herds. One overnight is in a handsome 17th century manor house set in splendid countryside.
Days 6-8
Santiago de Compostela
We continue through gorgeous Galician scenery, hiking through hamlets and farms flanked by ancient grain silos built of granite. Our first sight of Santiago is from an overlook above town, from which we descend on foot to enter and explore this beautiful medieval city of golden granite. In the extraordinary twin-towered limestone Cathedral of Santiago, we have a chance to attend the noon pilgrim mass and see the enormous traditional incense burner, the Botafumeiro, swung from the ceiling over the assembled crowd. Overnight in a sumptuous parador. Depart on Day 8.