Great Carpathian Traverse

Join veteran Trip Leader Gianluca Canalicchio for a rare Eastern Europe hiking journey—a 5-country adventure! As we carve an arc across the Carpathian chain by way of Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, and Ukraine, we take a step back in time and enter a world of pristine beech forests where eagles soar and untouched villages that seem like open-air museums. Our hikes bring us across wildflower-filled meadows, up to mountain ridges, and into delightful hamlets where we can savor the rich heritage of folk architecture in the Carpathians, from exquisite little 18th century wooden churches to thatched houses with elaborately painted doors. Our cultural encounters will be fascinating, too, as we meet people of many ethnic backgrounds—Lemkos, Slovaks, Ruthenians, Carpatho-Rusyns—all with their own distinctive cultural traditions. Our journey begins in Krakow, one of the most perfectly preserved medieval cities in the world, and ends in Lviv, Ukraine, a poetic medieval city that was once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Simple hotels and inns provide our accommodations, and we’ll be sure to sample the best local cuisines, from Rusyn kremzlike (potato pancakes) to delicious Ukrainian borscht, as well as the fine wines of Hungary’s Tokay vineyards. Join us for a taste of off-the-beaten-path Europe!

Itinerary at a Glance

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Days 1-2
Krakow, Poland

Krakow is often called “the New Prague” because of its beautifully preserved architectural splendor. The seat of Polish kings for over three centuries, this ancient city is without a doubt one of the most picturesque in all Europe. Our explorations include the Jewish Quarter, the Royal Wawel Castle, and the grand central square.

Days 3-4
Beskid Niski Mountains

Heading into the countryside, we explore the Beskid Niski Range, with its gentle peaks and bucolic farms where horse carts are still seen. Our hikes brings us through mixed forests of beech and spruce, and we visit a farm where native  Hucul (Carpathian) ponies are raised. We also hike to tranquil villages including the abandoned hamlet of Czertyszne, where people of the Lemko ethnicity lived earlier in the 20th century. At the village of Banica, we visit its magnificent 18th century wooden church and visit a private home to hear the story of the Lemkos, descendants of Ruthenian-Rusyn-Ukrainian immigrants displaced by the upheavals of World War I and World War II.

Days 5-6
Bardejov, Slovakia / Levoca / Spissky Castle

Hiking right across the border into Slovakia, we head to the Slovak town of Bardejov, an exceptionally complete example of a fortified medieval town and now a UNESCO site. On Day 6, we enjoy a walking tour of the walled medieval town of Levoca, and hike along a pilgrim trail from nearby Spissky Castle through the meadows and pastures of the Levoca Hills.

Days 7-9
Tokay, Hungary / Maramures, Romania

Heading into Hungary’s Tokay region, our first stop is Mala Turna, where we visit wine cellars dating to the 15th century. In the World Heritage-listed town of Tokay, we set out for a vineyard hike, then cross into the Maramures region of northern Romania, probably the richest place in Romania for authentic folkloric elements. The women of Maramures continue their traditions of weaving, creating clothing and blankets in red-white-black patterns and traditional dress is still proudly worn in every day life. Our Maramures hike brings us across the ridges of the Gutin Mountains, where volcanic peaks dominate the Mara and Cosau valleys.

Days 10-13
Barsana / Mukatchevo, Ukraine / Roztoka / Pylipets

After a visit to the remarkable Barsana Monastery, built in 1720 atop a hill and a Christian pilgrimage site, we explore the well-managed skanzen (open-air ethnographic museum) at the village of Maramuresh, and then head into Ukraine. Our first hike here explores trails in the Nelipyno Mountains for fantastic views. Our other hikes include ridge walks in the Carpathians that bring us to lovely villages including Roztoka, with its 17th century church.

Days 14-15
Lviv

Charming Lviv, one of the main cultural centers of the Ukraine, was founded in the 13th century and has changed flags many times, having been part of Poland, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and the Soviet Union. Luckily, the old walled city went virtually unscathed during the World War II. We enjoy a walking tour, including 16th century Rynok (Market) Square, flanked by fine 18th and 19th century mansions, in this yet-to-be-discovered gem of a town. Depart on Day 15.

For a more complete description, Download Full Detailed Itinerary

What the Trip is Like

The trip is Level 3, Moderate. We hike from 2 to 7 miles on most days over rolling hills, with occasional steep trails. Distances are not long, but you should be in good shape and wear good hiking boots. Hiking poles are recommended. You need to carry only a daypack for your camera, water bottle, rain jacket, etc. A vehicle transfers our luggage between overnight accommodations. On some days, we enjoy picnic lunches prepared by the Trip Leader with local produce, wine, breads, and cheeses. On “town” days, we have lunch at local cafes. Please note that in Europe, the dinner hour is considerably later than what it is in the US. We do our best to secure early reservations for our groups, but most often the evening meal will be at 7:30 pm.

Although rooms are not always of uniform or international size, our leaders always try their best to assign rooms in a fair way so that all participants experience an equal advantage throughout the trip as a whole. Single rooms can be requested but are not always available, due to the limited space in the hotels. If you require a single room, please make the request as early as possible.

Explanation of Trip Levels