Apulia

With azure-blue Adriatic and Ionian coastlines, whitewashed towns, curious conical trulli houses, centuries-old olive orchards in silvery shades of green and gray, and a layer cake of ancient cultures, Apulia is a delightful surprise in the “heel of the Italian boot.” In this deeply traditional realm, we discover the distinctive character of southern Italy on hikes among isolated villages and fortified farmhouses and along one of Italy’s most spectacular coastlines. As we explore, we join the local tradition of the passeggiata (leisurely before-dinner strolls), enjoy the hospitality of the Apulian people, and savor some of Italy’s best cuisine, la cucina pugliese, with locally grown ingredients born of the sun-drenched countryside and the deep blue sea.

Itinerary at a Glance

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Days 1-2
Trani / Matera

From the seaside town of Trani, we head to Castel del Monte, a fascinating 13th century octagonal castle and a World Heritage Site. After a warm-up walk amid the farmlands and pine woods encircling this site, we continue to Matera, a troglodyte town that sprawls down the edge of a ravine in a series of extraordinary sassi, or cave dwellings. Matera is the best surviving example of a rock-cut settlement in the Mediterranean, and we explore among the town’s 10th century caves and churches with Byzantine frescoes. The next day, we enjoy a hike in Matera’s dramatic canyon for breathtaking perspectives of an abandoned pastoral world. Some clusters of Matera’s small homes have now been turned into lovely hotels, and we stay in one of them, with unique rock-hewn cavern rooms.

Days 3-5
Taranto / Alberobello / Cooking Class

In the green Itria Valley, we hike amid vineyards and cherry orchards and visit historic Taranto, founded by Spartan settlers. We then head inland for a hike among Apulia’s unique trulli settlements, passing through a landscape of olive groves, vineyards, and oak woodlands where Podolica cattle and black Murgiano horses are raised. On Day 5, we head to a family dairy for a demonstration of southern Italian cheese-making, then hike to an ancient farmhouse for some local hospitality, including an informal cooking class followed by a feast of Apulian specialties. Overnights are at the World Heritage Site of Alberobello, a fairytale hilltown with a skyline of charming whitewashed houses.

Days 6-10
Otranto / Lecce

Medieval Otranto is an atmospheric port near the tip of the Apulian heel where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet. Here on one of Italy’s most breathtaking coastlines we hike past ancient Saracen watchtowers reigning over blue coves, and along the aquamarine sea at Porto Badisco, a charming hamlet on a lovely bay where Homer’s Aeneas is said to have landed. We enjoy our last nights in elegant Lecce, Apulia’s cultural capital. With its artisans and exuberant Baroque architecture of pink sandstone, Lecce is one of southern Italy’s most charming cities. Depart Day 10 from Brindisi.

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What the Trip is Like

The hiking on this trip is rated Level 3, Moderate. We enjoy day walks and hikes of 2-4 hours over variable terrain, including rolling countryside, rocky coastal trails, and steep canyons, with options on Day 2 and Day 6 for shorter or longer hikes. We will carry just a daypack. Sturdy, well broken-in hiking boots are definitely necessary for some of the rural trails of this area, though walking shoes (or sturdy sandals, like Tevas) may be suitable for some days. The meals included in the itinerary will be taken at the hotels where we are staying, at local farmhouses, or at restaurants in town, with some picnic lunches. For meals “on your own,” the Trip Leader will be happy to advise you on, or accompany you, to local restaurants and trattorias. Please note that in Europe, the dinner hour is considerably later than what it is in the US. We do our best to secure early reservations for our groups, but most often the evening meal will be at 7:30 p.m.

Explanation of Trip Levels