Days 1-2
Trani / Matera
Departing the seaside town of Trani, we enjoy a warm-up walk amid ancient olive groves and visit the amazing octagonal Castel del Monte, a 13th century castle and the definitive symbol of Apulia. We continue to picturesque Matera, with its historic center sprawled down a ravine in a series of extraordinary sassi, or stone-carved cave dwellings. Our hiking trail here brings us to prehistoric dwellings, chiese rupestri (rock-carved Byzantine churches), hermitages, medieval shepherds’ villages, and across Matera Canyon to the abandoned Villaggio Saraceno. Some of Matera’s clusters of small homes have been turned into hotels with unique rock-hewn cavern rooms, each of which was once a home. We stay in one of these lovely hotels.
Days 3-5
Taranto / Alberobello / Cooking Class
In the green Itria Valley, we hike amid vineyards and cherry orchards and visit historic Taranto, founded by Spartan settlers on a lagoon. The fairytale hilltown of Alberobello welcomes us with its extraordinary skyline of whitewashed trulli—ancient cylindrical houses with conical roofs. Around this charming town, we hike country lanes scattered with thousands of trulli and learn about Apulia’s native breeds, including Podolica cattle and black Murgese horses. One evening, we enjoy a walk around the famous round town of Locorotondo, with its commanding position above the Itria Valley. On Day 5, we head to a family dairy for a demonstration of southern Italian cheese-making, then hike to an ancient farmhouse for some local hospitality, including an informal cooking class followed by a feast of Apulian specialities. Overnights are in the World Heritage Site of Alberobello.
Days 6-7
Otranto / Porto Badisco / Gallipoli
Descending to the Salento Peninsula, we head to the massive medieval walled town of Otranto, atmospheric and set on the sea. Here the Adriatic is a breathtaking panorama of impossibly clear waters beneath azure skies. Sea conditions permitting, we boat along the coast the next day to Porto Badisco, a picturesque cove said to be where Homer’s Aeneas landed after escaping from Troy, and disembark for an extraordinary coast hike with spectacular views at every turn. We also visit the very special island-town of Gallipoli, which looks like a blend between a Moorish casbah and a medieval fortress surrounded by the sea. Our accommodation in Otranto is an 18th century masseria nestled in a tranquil pine forest near the coast.
Days 8-10
Lecce
Our grand finale is elegant Lecce, Apulia’s cultural capital. With its artisans and exuberant Baroque architecture of pink sandstone, it is one of southern Italy’s most charming cities. We enjoy one final hike, this one in a wetland reserve along the Cesine Coast, with a chance for a refreshing swim. Depart Day 10 from Brindisi.
This is the Itinerary-at-a-Glance. For the complete trip description,
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