Headwaters of the Amazon

Join us for a fascinating exploration of the origins of the Amazon ecosystem with Trip Leader Randy Borman, the “Gringo Chief” who led the first-ever WT trip in 1978, a canoe expedition along Ecuador’s Cuyabeno River. Our journey begins at the continental divide in north-central Ecuador, where tropical air currents dump the moisture that forms the Amazon. We hike in cloud forests replete with orchids, countless birds, and rare and endangered species including the spectacled bear and mountain tapir, then, descending further, we enter the Aguarico River system, home to the Cofan people of the Amazon rainforest. The son of missionaries, Randy grew up among the Cofan and became their defacto chief as he worked to protect their lands and way of life from encroaching oil interests. From Zabalo, a village founded by Randy that’s now the center of local conservation efforts, we set out for hikes in the rainforest, then embark in canoes on the magical waters of the Zabalo River to spend two nights at a remote riverside camp where wildlife reigns supreme, from brilliant macaws to caimans to several species of monkeys. With Randy’s help, the Cofan have become accustomed to sharing their fascinating culture, and our journey grants us an insider’s view of what is at stake for the future of Amazon ecosystems as seen through the historical and cultural perspectives of the Cofan people.

Itinerary at a Glance

For a more complete description, Download Full Trip Brochure

Days 1-2
Quito / Papallacta Hot Springs

After arriving in Quito, we head to the high paramo habitat of Parque Nacional Cayambe-Coca, a high elevation ecosystem that extends throughout the Andes and provides habitats for multiple bird and mammal species. From the continental divide (12,500'), we have a splendid view of the rugged world where the Amazon’s waters begin, and hike down to the Papallacta hot springs complex, enjoying views of glacier-formed lakes and volcanic and tectonic peaks.

Days 3-4
Cloud Forest Walk / Cascadas de San Rafael

Our hike in the cloud forest offers incredible birding, with numerous bright and bold tanagers, jays, toucans, quetzals, guans, caciques, and parrots, huge Spanish cedar forests (exclusive to this region), abundant orchids, and archaeological sites. The next day we hike to the Cascadas de San Rafael (Coca Falls), one of the most impressive waterfalls in South America. The area is part of the Parque Nacional Cayambe-Coca and includes montane forests that are refuge for spider monkeys, cock-of-the-rocks, the rare wattled guan, and many other endangered animals. We continue down to the Rio Aguarico, the river system that is home to the traditional Cofan people.

Days 5-7
Aguarico Headwaters / Zabalo

We enjoy spectacular scenery including a cave featuring nests of the cock-of-the-rock as we hike along the Aguarico headwaters to the confluence of the Rios Chingual and Cofanes. These two rivers join in an incredible canyon setting of clear green waters, with military macaws flying overhead, giant “dorado” fish lazing in the shallows, and a quiet beach. The next day we travel downriver by boat to Zabalo, the center of Cofan conservation efforts, with the largest amount of intact pristine rainforest under its control—almost half a million acres. While based in Zabalo, we learn what life is like for Cofans in the 21st century. From the village, we hike into the archetypical rainforest of the “Terra Firma” ecosystem to the north of Zabalo—part of the largest remaining contiguous forest in the world. During our hike we learn about the Cofans’ traditional interaction with the rainforest, including the use of medicinal plants.

Days 8-10
Zabalo River Camp

We move to our camp on the banks of the Rio Zabalo. Here we enjoy exploring the river system by small dugout canoes, take short hikes in igapo (flooded) forests, fish—with the opportunity to catch (and eat) piranas, and see a variety of wildlife. Returning to Zabalo, we visit its small, impromptu village market where handicrafts are displayed.

Days 11-13
Quito / Otavalo Market

We journey back to Quito via Lago Agrio, from where we fly to Quito. In the village of Otavalo, we explore its famed market offering the best selection of Ecuadorian woven tapestries, alpaca clothing, and pottery. Depart Quito on Day 13.

For a more complete description, Download Full Trip Brochure

What the Trip is Like

The trip is rated Level 3+, Moderate, according to our trip grading system. We take several day hikes with elevations as high as 12,000 feet to forest walks between 2,000 and 3,000 feet. At lower elevations, lack of oxygen is not really a factor, but the terrain can still be mountainous and occasionally muddy and slippery. You should be in good physical shape to enjoy it to the fullest. Accommodations vary in quality, ranging from a modern hotel in Quito to very rustic camps in the homeland of the Cofan.

Explanation of Trip Levels